Vietnam
Pillar · 7 essays

Vietnam

A long thin country with two deltas, a thousand years of pushing back against China, two wars in living memory, and the fastest economic transformation of the past forty years.

Vietnam is, on a map, an absurd shape. About 1,650 km from north to south. As narrow as 50 km in the middle. Two large river deltas at the ends, a long mountain spine running down the back, a coastline running the entire length. Populations cluster at the deltas — Hanoi in the north, around the Red River; Ho Chi Minh City in the south, around the Mekong — and the middle is a thinner, more contested band of coastal lowland that joins them.

The shape is not incidental to anything that has happened here. The deltas produce rice, the rice supports populations, the populations sit at the only two flat, fertile, water-rich places on a long, mountainous coast, and the long mountainous coast guarantees that the deltas are tied together by a single corridor that any invader has to fight up or down.

The seven essays in this pillar trace the country from its physical shape through its dynastic past, its colonial century, the two wars that defined its twentieth century in Western memory, the economic reforms that began in 1986, the food culture that survived everything, and the Vietnam that exists today — the fifteenth-largest country by population, an upper-middle-income manufacturing economy, and a place whose recent past most foreigners know in only one shape.

Read in order if Vietnam is new territory; the arc is geographic, then chronological, then thematic.

Read in order

Vietnam — The Shape of the Country

Two deltas, a 1,650-kilometer coast, a mountain spine, and a climate that runs from temperate to tropical along its length. The geography decides almost everything.

◉ Da Nang, central Vietnam

Vietnam Before the Colonizers

A thousand years under Chinese rule, a thousand years of independent dynasties, and a long southward expansion that gradually swallowed the Cham kingdoms — Vietnam's pre-colonial history is older and stranger than the wars that overshadow it.

◉ Hoa Lư, Ninh Bình (early Vietnamese capital)

French Indochina

Eighty years of French colonial rule built rubber plantations, rail lines, opium monopolies, a Latin-script Vietnamese alphabet, and a generation of Vietnamese-educated revolutionaries who would eventually drive the French out.

◉ Hanoi (colonial capital of Indochina)

The Vietnam Wars

Two wars, thirty years, and a sequence of strategic miscalculations by two of the most powerful militaries in the world. The lessons are about politics, not weapons.

◉ Điện Biên Phủ, northwestern Vietnam

Đổi Mới and Reunification

The first decade after the war was a planned-economy disaster. The 1986 reforms reopened the country to markets, kept the political structure intact, and produced one of the fastest sustained economic transformations of the modern era.

◉ Hanoi (the seat of the reform-era government)

Phở, Bánh Mì, and the Vietnamese Coffee Economy

Vietnamese cuisine is a colonial palimpsest layered onto a deeper indigenous tradition — and the coffee that came in with the French became, a century later, the country's largest agricultural export.

◉ Ho Chi Minh City (the country's culinary capital)

Contemporary Vietnam

A hundred million people, an upper-middle-income economy, the world's primary alternative manufacturing base, and a one-party state navigating its largest geopolitical contest since 1979 — Vietnam in the 2020s.

◉ Ho Chi Minh City